Holden blue 202 ignition timing
Made by ICE Ignitions. This kit inlcudes a billet distributor, coil, spark plug leads and the MV electronic control module. Installation available at extra cost - please enquire. The 7 Amp unit delivers the most power you can push through a spark plug and get good life from the plugs.
The 10 Amp units are a RACE ONLY unit where you are on the gas the whole time the engine is running, this sort of application for the 10 amp units expects a constant extreemly dense fuel air mixture to ignite.
Have no doubt that you will be constantly burning plugs with a 10 Amp unit used in applications where a lot of idle and off idle mid range driving is done, for example street cars and street-strip hot rods and muscle cars. We see alot of Web Site marketers that push the wrong components KustomBitz Contact Details.
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I have a timing light but I don't know what to do and I don't understand when people talk about x amount of degrees etc. So, can anyone give me an idea on how this is done. Make sure your spark plugs are all firing and warm up the car and connect the timing light to spark plug one lead. Point the gun to where the timing scale is on your harmonic balancer.
Unbolt the distributor bolt and slightly rotate the distributor and bolt back up and check again if it's out. You shouldn't need to check it anyway if it's running fine. It will likely be spot on. Last edited: Aug 4, The spark timing on a 6cyl est computer car cannot be adjustedForum Rules. Remember Me? Results 1 to 7 of 7.
Thread: Electronic distributor setup - advice please. Thread Tools Show Printable Version. Electronic distributor setup - advice please. I'm thinking about an electronic dizzy for my series 3 with the holden I'm tossing up between an original used bosch unit and some of the new electronic setups you can buy, I take it the proper bosch would be easier to get parts for than some of the chinese made ones?
What I don't know, and hopefully someone can explain because I really haven't had to do a lot of work on the motor, is to fit an electronic distributor, how easy is the fitting, setup etc?
Sellers all claim it fits straight in out of the box and are ready to run, but looking at the gear on the bottom, is there a particular way these are supposed to fit in considering they can go in any position? This may seem like a stupid question but as I said, I haven't previously had a lot to do with holden motors or fitting or removing distributors. Obviously there are no points to be adjusted but one needs to be sure that when the motor is in a certain position, the dizzy is firing in that same spot too.
Any tips for the mechanically inept? Timing set the engine to no.
Holden VH 202 Blue Emissions Setup Guide TVS stuff
You will need a timing light to set the timing accurately after starting. The sellers are broadly correct in saying it is a plug-n-play item but you are better off running a new wire from the ignition switch to the coil positive terminal, removing any ballast resistor from the circuit. Chinese distributors are an unknown quality, I would rather buy a good used OEM dissy, install a new genuine Bosch ignition module and install with a matching coil.
Do not under any circumstances use a points coil with the electronic dissy. Fit a new plastic drive gear or a steel gear off an oil pump or your old dissy if so fitted.
The plastic drive gears have a use-by date and will break. If you doubt your ability to do any of this ask an auto electrician to fit one for you, then its his fault if he stuffs up. The motor now starts first go, and runs like a charm. Sorry, tried to get the picture of it only, but I could only get the link. But will give you an idea what is available. This is a complete kit, with the dissy, leads and coil, all ready to go.
The kit is a little expensive, but well worth it. No more points to replace, and stuff up at the wrong time. I wouldn't waste my money on one of the knock-off distributors, they aren't known for being very reliable. When buying a HEI dizzy try to get one that comes complete with cap, leads and coil. If you can look at it before purchasing check to see that there is not to much play in the shaft either up and down or side to side. To get the new distributor timed right, start with you old one and pull the cap off but don't loosen the retaining bolt, rotate the engine by hand until the notch in the middle of the rotor button lines up with the notch in the outside of the distributor housing.
On the points dizzy the notch is fainter but still near the vac advance unit. If your old dizzy was installed correctly this mark should also line up with your number 1 spark plug lead, It would pay to check this now as you will need to match this on the new distributor.
Now you can remove the old distributor and chuck it in the bin but keep the bracket and bolt that hold it down. Now install the new distributor. When fitting make sure the vac advance unit and the ignition module are clear of the block so there is room to adjust the timing. Once you get the two notches lined up tighten the mounting bolt and on with the cap and leads. These HEI distributors need a full 12v so if you have either a resistaance feed wire or an inline resistor now is the time to bypass these.
All that is left now is to turn the key and fire it up.If you are running a cam or anything you really should get the dissy re graphed, will make a world of difference. Cheap check get an advanceable timing light and check total advance, shouldnt really go over about degrees, this should be all in by around if it goes up and down or varies alot above your advance springs are stuffed, replace or buy another shit dissy, hopefully the next will be in better condition.
Don't be a tight arse and buy premium! Haha Nathan i wish, i actually have a chev and glide lined up from a good mate up the sunshine coast, alas i dont have the money to do it right now with rego and all that shit.
Otherwise i would in a heartbeat. The elec dizzy came from the wreckers and so it could have something stuffed in it. Toomanytoys, Vacuum advance is connected, don't have any special cam just stocker. We may have an advanceable timing light here so i think we're going to try that tomorrow. How much are the advance springs?
Have you tried octane boost? My Prem was pinging after i had the engine built. We retarded the timing and run octane boost through and it fixed it.
I only put premium in her now and no more pinging. I'll have to give that a go. It never did it for the first year or so of driving it though. I bought a elec dizzy off a booster and had to replace the bushes on the shaft before fitting it. I believe they have minimal tolerence before they start to malfunction. Good luck find bushes if it needs them.
You could machine some though if you have access to a lathe etc. Gday Bro my twootwo in the HZ which is rebuilt but standard other than extractors and a 2.
Mine is a points dizzy though not that should mattermines also running a 3. So drop the timing a bit and whack some premium in her and see if that makes a difference mate. I know that with mine if I fill up at a united or something it pings its head off.
Mate I was unaware it was purple and has commodore parts this would be the cause of your problem, LOL. Almost agree with thatthe S motor is the best. Not cars surely? QUOTE madman productions Nov 4PM whats wrong with an old kinger they makes awesome paddoc bashers and are awesome cars to learn how to drive in, Amen to that brotherhard to kill and hard to be killed in.
QUOTE madman productions Nov 4PM whats wrong with an old kinger they makes awesome paddoc bashers and are awesome cars to learn how to drive in, apart from the people that drive them, it felt worse than my VN! Changing bushings in the dizzy is the last thing i want to do. I do have another electronic distributor in another engine here, could try that but i'd rather try octane booster or lead replacement or something else easier first to rule that out or find that its the cause of the problem.
Its the standard diff. It ran fine on unleaded for a long time but i did stop using the lead replacement. Would you like me to come over and get that commodore electronic dizzy i gave you for the hq and bring it back home? Should i try a different servo? QUOTE nightcrawler Nov 4PM Mate I was unaware it was purple and has commodore parts this would be the cause of your problem, LOL Lol, yeah hes just jealous he has to drive a shitbox rodeo ute as a daily instead of something awesome.
I might even talk you out of the "Dirty chev" and into the grand olI think the dissy s got leads aswell but id have to dig around and see. What is the advantage of a twin point over my current early commo electric dizzy?
Where are you located? I just had a quick google and they are as the name suggests, twin points.Proper timing is all-important to the thermo-efficiency of the engine. The first thing to keep in mind is that fuel burns at a certain rate in an engine regardless of the rpm. All automotive engines today have four strokes. Let's use a single cylinder in an engine as an illustration to demonstrate how all four strokes work. The crankshaft turns two revolutions, which moves the pistons up and down to one turn of the camshaft that opens and closes the valves.
The piston begins all the way up at top dead center.
The burning fuel expanding forces the piston downward. At this time the valves are closed. This is the power stroke. As the crankshaft turns, the piston begins to go back up and the camshaft opens the exhaust valve. The upward moving piston forces the burnt gases out of the cylinder. This is the second or exhaust stroke. Just before the piston rises completely in the exhaust stroke the intake valve opens, using the vacuum produced by the rapidly exiting exhaust gases to help draw in more fuel from the intake valve.
As the piston reaches top dead center and continues downward once again it creates a vacuum sucking more fuel into the cylinder. This is the intake stroke. Just prior to reaching the bottom of this stroke the intake valve closes. The crankshaft turns again and the piston begins to move upward, compressing the raw fuel and air in the process.
This is the fourth or compression stroke. As the piston rises, the ignition spark plug ignites the fuel and the process begins again. Consider that the fuel must be burnt as completely as possible before the piston reaches the top of the compression stroke in order to force the piston downward in the power stroke.
It would not be efficient having a small percentage of the fuel consumed before the piston hits top dead center.Holden V8 (How to Advance or retard a Distributer on a V8) 304-355 stroker
This would mean that the fuel is still igniting while the piston is descending in the power stroke and would result in a massive loss of power. This would equate to 10 degrees of crankshaft rotation before reaching top dead center to give the fuel sufficient time for a complete burn. As the engine rpm increases to 3, rpm, the fuel, -- still requiring the same time to burn -- would never have sufficient time to burn if ignited at the same degree timing.
In order to have the same result, the fuel must be ignited much sooner in the compression stroke.Ignition timing is tough to understand, but easy to adjust and set. Just for your edification, I'll go into the what's what on timing on this page, but if you have zero interest in all of the complexities of ignition timing, why it's important to how well your engine is running, and why it can be disastrous if it's off, you should skip all of the tech talk and simply get out your manual to make the adjustments.
Your engine is a complex symphony of rapidly moving parts -- pistons, rods, valves, pulleys, camshafts, a crankshaft -- all of these heavy, strong pieces are moving with great velocity inside your engine. Your piston moves up and down, the valves move in and out, the connecting rods push and pull, and the crankshaft spins wildly at the center of it all. This symphony plays itself out thousands of times every minute as you drive down the street.
There are two kinds of timing that take a seat at every engine event. The first is called cam timing, the second is ignition timing. Cam timing has more to do with all of the heavy stuff moving fast inside your engine. Remember the valves and pistons? Both of these are moving, and the piston is moving with the explosive oomph provided by the other cylinders in your engine. Your engine has a timing belt or chain that does a lot more than take energy from the spinning crankshaft and use it to spin the camshaft or camshafts.
Its job is to make sure the valves are out of the way when that piston comes flying toward the engine's head. In some engines, the piston can actually impact a valve at the top of its movement. In these engines, called "interference" type engines, even a slight slip in cam timing can be catastrophic and result in a complete engine overhaul -- thousand of dollars. This is one reason it's so important to inspect your timing belt for wear or damage.
Luckily unless you've been doing some serious work on your car, the cam timing is probably right on the money. If it wasn't, you'd know it because your car would be running horribly, if at all. Your ignition timingon the other hand, can be throw off by any number of little things.
The good news is it's just as easy to adjust and reset. A little history: The engine in your car or truck has 4 cycles.
HOLDEN electronic distributor 138 149 161 179 186 202 with coil
Each one of these cycles is repeated in each cylinder. First, it sucks in air and fuel. Most new cars use direct injection so the air gets sucked in through the intake valve while the fuel is blasted in by a precise injector.
The second part, or stroke, in each cylinder is called the "compression stroke. This creates heat and volatility in the mixture. The third stroke is the ignition or combustion stroke now we're getting somewhere. At this point the spark plug fires and ignites the air-fuel mixture, causing the piston to be pushed back down to the bottom of the stroke. The final stroke is the exhaust stroke. At this time the exhaust valve opens up and lets the old, burnt mixture out so we can suck new stuff in and do it all again!
The key to this whole operation is making sure the timing of that spark is on cue. A fraction off and you get an engine that is working against itself, which will cause a loss of power and choppy idle.This page is an attempt to provide some information and guidance for those wanting to build a higher output six cylinder Holden engine - specifically the red, blue or black straight sixes.
It's based on my own admittedly limited experience with these engines, plus what I've been able to glean from others. Reliable information for these old engines isn't easily available, and as usual anything you read in magazines should be taken with a big grain of salt - after all their primary responsibility is to their advertisers.
The stuff you find on the web isn't necessarily any more credible, so use common sense and carefully consider anything you read before implementing it. Of course, that includes what's written here. You'll notice that the information here isn't particularly detailed; it's more of an attempt to steer the reader in the right direction.
You'll also notice that I tend to mix metric and imperial units - you'll just have to convert them yourself if that's a problem. Naturally, a page like this can never be complete, and I welcome suggestions and corrections. It's aimed at the builder with a limited budget, and is therefore focused on using the original Holden major components - eg.
Mainly we will discuss naturally aspirated engines, though we may touch briefly on issues related to blown engines. The six is a reasonably light and compact engine compared to an iron V8, and can provide reasonable performance in a lightish car like an early Holden or Torana. Having said that, the red motor wasn't a particularly advanced design even when it was first released and it's ultimately quite limited in output, mainly by the cylinder head design.
As we will see later, the cylinder head is the key to making power with the six. The other limiting factor with regard to power production is block durability. While they can handle as much as double the original horsepower without problems, further increases frequently result in a cracked or broken block, particularly when high rpms are used.
Blown engines can easily make more power than the engine can reliably withstand - with enough boost power levels of over hp are possible if not sustainable.
Turbocharging works exceptionally well on these engines; making odd hp is easy, not only that but the power is made at rpm levels below those that cause block problems. Naturally aspirated, don't expect to get much more than around - hp for a streetable engine. This mightn't sound like a lot compared to todays injected V8s, but it's not unusual for a light street car with a hot six to get into the 13s without resorting to nitrous. With exceptionally light cars like the early Toranas 12s are fairly easily achievable but the streetability of such an engine will be marginal.
Not only will you get the peak horsepower, you'll get a wider powerband. I'll be blunt. If performance is the primary consideration and you don't have to use a particular engine to comply with rules then there are much better choices than the old Holden.
Modern engines from Nissan or Toyota for example will out perform the old Aussie six by a massive margin - you won't even be in the race. Another older engine with a fair bit more potential - mainly due to it's bigger displacement - is the old Hemi six.
All of these engines will outperform the Holden and almost certainly cost less on a horsepower per dollar basis. If however, you don't need to make a million horsepower, or you'll be competing against similar engines, or perhaps you want to build up a cool old-school street car then the Holden six might do the job nicely. Just don't kid yourself that you're going to show these young blokes with their turboed 2JZs a thing or two with the old six - you'll only embarass yourself.
Before for you can start work, it's critical that you have some sort of plan in place in order to be able to choose components that work together and are suitable for the intended use. But before you even start planning you should work out how much power is needed to be competitive, and roughly what sort of rev range will be associated with that power level. If, for example, it turns out that you need hp or that the powerband will be only rpm wide then at least you'll know not to waste any more time and money trying to build a winner from a and an Aussie 4 speed Be particularly careful about determining the usable rev range.
At the top end maximum revs will be largely determined by the strength of the reciprocating components, and these in turn may be limited by your budget.